Rootstock Cuttings

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Re: Rootstock Cuttings

Post by IanM on 12th December 2010, 23:38

Simon, does it matter where you put the bud on the cane? Does it need to be on or near an existing bud, or can it go anywhere? How about half way between two existing buds?

I have stacks of Dr Huey now thanks to the drought. What is it like for use as stock? These are one of the easiest roses to strike from cuttings. Just throw them in a pot with some garden soil and they never look back.

I am also keen to learn about grafting roses. Does anyone actually graft roses any more, or is budding the only method now? The reason I ask is that I got a grafting tool last Christmas. It works by cutting an even shape on stock and scion which then fit together like a jigsaw puzzle. You then wrap the wound with tape until airtight and paint over the lot with some tree stack. I have yet to make a successful graft, not only with roses but every other kind of plant I've tried.

The only plant I can successfully graft with ease are cacti, and I do this with nothing more than a sharp knife and some rubber bands. Smile If only roses were so easy!

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Location : Darling Downs, Queensland
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Re: Rootstock Cuttings

Post by Admin on 12th December 2010, 23:54

I have one of those grafting tools (called an Omega Grafter) for grafting fruit trees but don't use it on the roses. I find it crushes the tissue too much causing serious bruising. I've only ever been successful at budding roses. I've tried whip and cleft grafting and failed. Chip budding is nice and tidy and easy. I like how you don't actually have to touch the scion like you do with T-budding. Dr Phooey is the understock of choice for much of the country's roses. It does poorly here due to my acidic soil so I prefer multiflora, but I do have Dr Phooey here as well as Indica Major to choose from.

When I was grafting cacti onto Hylocereus rootstocks all I'd use is a sharp knife and some stocking pulled over and hooked onto the small spines to keep it in place. I have just got some Pere that I'm going to try some seedling grafts and to put some Sulcorebutia rauschii onto to see if that moves things along a bit faster. My last rauschii I had for over 15 years and never saw a flower in that time. I'm hoping this new plant will be more obliging.

On placement of the bud. I'm not convinced it makes any difference. Some say do it directly behind another bud but I never do. I put it in between and the reason I do this is that when I cut it back (Bruce calls this activating and this makes more sense), to the new bud I don't want to leave any part of the other bud there that can shoot.... you have to scoop out the whole bud and take extra tissue with it to ensure it doesn't shoot and I just feel this is just another wound to heal when it could have been easily avoided by just snipping off the top past the last understock bud.


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Re: Rootstock Cuttings

Post by Ozeboy on 13th December 2010, 22:50

Ian, just a couple of adittions that may help. Select Multiflora canes that are thicker than a pencil at the base running up to just under pencil thickness at the top. Anything thinner is best discarded. I sometimes sort into different sizes as HT buds are larger and Tea buds a lot smaller. Marie Van Houtte buds are about the smallest of the Tea's

I have budded minatures and last season 'Basino'. Can't get any more fiddly than these.

Cuttings take longer to callus in cooler weather, about 3 to 4 weeks while in summer 10 days at 20 to 25 degrees C is about as fast as I get. I like to have them planted within 3 weeks from cutting as these establish a lot faster. After 3 weeks carbohydrates start to become exhausted which slows down establishment.

Simon mentioned my term 'Activate buds' so thought you might like to know what I am trialing this season. Firstly must mention old techniques like just cutting the tops off above the bud which can result in die back on the understock at the back of the bud. This problem arises in fast growth months when there is a lot of sap running which is then cooked by the hot sun. I did get good results cutting them off about 75mm above the buds which resulted in the understock dying down to the bud then rotting off in 1 year forming a very nice appearence. When plants are dormant in winter this die back is not a big problem.
This year I am cutting the two top canes off close to the main cane and when shoots appear I rub them off leaving the Sion to shoot away. Then when dormant in winter they can be cut off just above the bud. More work but I think it will result in a better looking graft.


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