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Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by betsyw on 17th June 2012, 16:26

Pretty drastically, Neptune. The main lesson I took away was to get rid of all canes that are more than three-four years old.

There are two Swanes pruning videos on the the net, one for garden roses and one for potted roses. To my eye, the potted rose really got thwacked, including the removal of canes that I thought looked great, and normally would have left. So this year, we'll try it their way.
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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by neptune on 17th June 2012, 16:43

Basically you tale out all spindley canes and the ones in the center. So you cut a cane just above an outward growing bud. Then you cut canes that are brown or dead. Keep the ones that are nice and green and also some are that purpley/pink color. I find it very basic, but one day I will find myself a national champion rose grower who will allow me to sit on his pruning time. This will give me an idea as to the difference in pruning....as a general rule, I try not and go below two thirds of the height of the bush....
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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by betsyw on 17th June 2012, 16:58

The Swane's guru is a lot more aggressive in pruning than you, Neptune. Your way is more my way, but I'm not getting reliable results, year in, year out. The two oldest Paroles are a bit of a mess anyway, so I might as well savage them this year. I have more coming, at any rate.

Here's what I found curious. For the garden-planted bushes,the Swane's guru gave the woody growth around the ground=level area a few light scores with the secaturs to encourage basal breaks. He did NOT do this with the container=planted roses, where the bud union was at least three inches above the soil.

So I'm thinking that this scoring technique can't be used for container roses, which is a great pity, because basal breaks are just so damn hard for me to come by in my tub roses.

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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by neptune on 17th June 2012, 17:05



@ betty........was that flower in the pot a florabunda....they are pruned differently...


Last edited by neptune on 17th June 2012, 17:08; edited 1 time in total
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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by Carole on 17th June 2012, 17:06

John, what are you doing mid July ?
David does rose pruning demonstrations and rose lectures/advice at our Field Days. lol!
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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by Carole on 17th June 2012, 17:07

That could be arranged lol!
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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by neptune on 17th June 2012, 17:08

Carole wrote:John, what are you doing mid July ?
David does rose pruning demonstrations and rose lectures/advice at our Field Days. lol!

Do you supply bed and breakfast Carole?.....

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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by Carole on 17th June 2012, 17:22

Do you require dinner as well ?
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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by The Lazy Rosarian on 17th June 2012, 17:46

Lets get one thing straight here evertone, it appears we are only talking about HT's(modern roses). The pruning of other rose varieties/species is a total different kettle of fish
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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by betsyw on 17th June 2012, 18:35

The demonstration potted plants were a Grandi (Heart of Gold) and an HT (Good Samaritan).

here's the link

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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by finbarr on 17th June 2012, 18:44

betsyw wrote:The Swane's guru is a lot more aggressive in pruning than you, Neptune. Your way is more my way, but I'm not getting reliable results, year in, year out. The two oldest Paroles are a bit of a mess anyway, so I might as well savage them this year. I have more coming, at any rate.

Here's what I found curious. For the garden-planted bushes,the Swane's guru gave the woody growth around the ground=level area a few light scores with the secaturs to encourage basal breaks. He did NOT do this with the container=planted roses, where the bud union was at least three inches above the soil.

So I'm thinking that this scoring technique can't be used for container roses, which is a great pity, because basal breaks are just so damn hard for me to come by in my tub roses.

the diff in the videos is the age of the plant. the potted one was into it's second winter prune, the garden plant may well have had 25. same process for pots or garden. exception is that potted plants will need to be removed and the winter prune done to the root system as well and then repotted into fresh mix. think "bonsai" and the process becomes clearer. not dwarfing the plant but refreshing those parts on the roots that are effective water and nutrient carriers while refershing above ground stems that are effective at carrying flowers

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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by finbarr on 17th June 2012, 18:48

roseman wrote:Lets get one thing straight here evertone, it appears we are only talking about HT's(modern roses). The pruning of other rose varieties/species is a total different kettle of fish
rose man is right. varieties/species with long canes and/or specific seasonal pruning need more specific care. try hedging David Austin types in winter (like a summer prune) and then a more cleansing prune in late summer. the challenge like any grower in any area is to know your conditions and vary the rules accordingly. that's why we need "experienced" gardeners.

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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by betsyw on 17th June 2012, 19:19

Excellent clarification! Didn't even occur to me that there might be a huge disparity in the ages of the garden and potted roses, Thanks, Finbarr, great info Very Happy
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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by OzRose on 18th June 2012, 23:13

I will try and post some before pix of "The Bank" tomorrow , and then some afters, when it has had the treatment..
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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by dannyboy on 19th June 2012, 03:55

I bought a product called Yates Rose Shield.Going to give it a go 10 mls to 1 litre of water and spray it after i prunn. Here is a bit of info on it .Controls the most common rose pest & disease problems including aphids, black spot, rustand powdery mildew.
Highly effective combination of a low toxic synthetic pyrethoid insecticide and a systemic broad spectrum fungicide.

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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by The Lazy Rosarian on 19th June 2012, 06:11

Daniel, does it tell you the active ingredients( the chemicals) in it scratch
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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by neptune on 19th June 2012, 07:13

dannyboy wrote:I bought a product called Yates Rose Shield.Going to give it a go 10 mls to 1 litre of water and spray it after i prunn. Here is a bit of info on it .Controls the most common rose pest & disease problems including aphids, black spot, rustand powdery mildew.
Highly effective combination of a low toxic synthetic pyrethoid insecticide and a systemic broad spectrum fungicide.

Danny, you will probably find that this product is for when there is leaves and flowers on the bush. It is not made for straight after a prune as it is systemeic in nature and after a prune there is no leaves left on the bush.
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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by dannyboy on 20th June 2012, 03:27

roseman wrote:Daniel, does it tell you the active ingredients( the chemicals) in it scratch


David that's all it says.Ingredients- Tau-fluvalinate & myclobutanil

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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by maree on 20th June 2012, 14:26

Dannyboy , i have used that product and as Neptune says it is for when there are leaves on the bush , it is a treatment and preventer i think . Trouble is , it is a chemical which will probably kill any beneficial insects , like lady bugs , lady bugs consume huge amounts of aphids , so in my garden i have gone all organic , no sprays whatsoever except for lime sulphur after pruning which is a natural product . Everyone to his own though , thats just what i do ....
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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by dannyboy on 20th June 2012, 14:52

maree wrote:Dannyboy , i have used that product and as Neptune says it is for when there are leaves on the bush , it is a treatment and preventer i think . Trouble is , it is a chemical which will probably kill any beneficial insects , like lady bugs , lady bugs consume huge amounts of aphids , so in my garden i have gone all organic , no sprays whatsoever except for lime sulphur after pruning which is a natural product . Everyone to his own though , thats just what i do ....


Thanks for the advise guys.So do you make the organic products yourself ? What is it based from.Thanks

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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by maree on 20th June 2012, 16:04

Danny the products i used where the Eco range of products , Eco fungicide mixed with Eco Oil , you have to use it every two weeks straight away after you have sprayed with lime sulphur and keep it up all the rose season . Too much like hard work , too expensive , you can make your own , but i do not spray anything anymore except for the clean up spray lime sulphur after pruning . You can make your own natural spray , go to Rose talk forum , click , Whats bugging my roses , click , scroll down to The proverbial black spot , lots of good info there ...
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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by Ozeboy on 24th June 2012, 14:04

Best way to deal with Blackspot and other fungus is to throw out the duds and replace with better roses. Spraying is only good for the chemical companies. Eco sprays don't work in my climate.
Do yourself a favour and have a look at the range of Tea roses, evergreen, clean and very drought proof once established.
Would suggest Mrs. B R Cant as a starter if you want to try and learn how healthy these roses are. They flower in flushes Summer, Winter,
Spring and Autumn. They are the best garden roses but not suitable for exhibition.

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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by Guest on 24th June 2012, 15:46

I am about 1/2 way through my pruning at the moment , only 400 to go Sweating . Have to get them all done in 13 days

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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by Ozeboy on 24th June 2012, 17:09

I try to prune late enough to miss the frosts on new shoots but early enough so as to avoid sap flow die back.
The time varies from season to season but usually OK to start middle of July or beginning last week of July. I don't prune the Tea's Noisettes or
China's other than to cut out dead canes which are almost non existant, there so healthy.

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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

Post by Bonita18 on 25th June 2012, 19:27

Bruce
I have never have never heard the term sap flow dieback. I was hoping to prune as late as mid August in my mild temp climate. August is pretty cool with westerly winds expected. I won't be pruning my noisettes, teas, chinas either. I treat them like other shrubs which get a haircut when it pleases me.

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Re: Looking Forward To Pruning Time.

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